Just throwing out this question in case anyone has some insights... I have a 3&4 S10 EMCI set up for E9 that I'm not really ever playing anymore, and I've never learned C6 at all... Is there a C6 copedent that would make sense on 3&4 rather than adding pedals (seeing as I don't have the parts on hand and they aren't that easy to come by now) in order to give C6 a bit of a go? Keeping in mind that I don't know the first thing about C6 and have only ever played E9.
I would even consider simply playing 10 string C6 no pedals just to get my feet wet in the tuning but I assume that it would make sense to have at least a few basic changes available...
Seems a bit of a waste to have such a nice guitar sitting around unplayed, and it would be fun to learn to play C6 at least a little
No reason why you can't just put on a C6 set of strings and reconfigure your components to do this. Reset pulls to accept different travel distances etc.
Forget pedals 4 & 8. Use pedals 5,6, & 7 for just about everything you need for C6.
Actually, you can do just fine with a basic set up on the KL's with only one, but since you already have 3 more, gives you the option of using one of those to substitute for pedal 4.
You'd definitely need one more rod for pedal 5, your pedal 1, and possibly a couple more here and there.
I'd love to have a guitar like that to set up for C6.
It's somethng I could probably accomplish in an afternoon easy enough.
I think it would be a fairly easy swap if you understand what you're doing. Good Luck!
Just an idea: My C6 still has a G on top. I would try pedal 8 (the Boo-Wah) on pedal 1 and put pedals 5 + 6 on pedals 2 + 3. Then, like Weldon Myrick did, have pedal 7 on a knee lever. With 3 knees remaining, make one of them string 3 C to B lower, string 4 A to Bb raise and consider strings 3 + 7 raise to C#. The problem you will encounter is the need for extra bellcranks and pullers. Carter parts will work on your steel. Not sure who has them other than Al Brisco. Good luck !
You could try this....
I think most of the combinations you'd want would be pretty comfortable with this approach.
Like Jerry said you might need an extra rod or two but maybe not...
Doug's idea of putting P8 on the A pedal would work too.
I think having the diminished pedals ( standard 5&6 ) in the old "AB" position would be intuitive, and the C# raise on LL would feel familiar there as it will be used a lot with the first pedal.
This is so cool - interesting to see the slightly different approaches.
Out of the 7 changes what do you all think would be the most important 5? Just so I could at least get started without having to scrounge up any parts…
Thanks again!
(ps it’s odd I never ran into you Andrew when I was in Toronto for 20 years until 2018 - I thought I knew pretty much every ofher steeler haha)
I have a Dekley I converted into a C6. It's and S10 with 3p/5k. This is the tuning I put on it.
[tab]
..................LKL................LKR.........1............2............3...........RKL.......... RKR
D
E................................................................F
C.............................................................................D.............B..............C#
A.................................Bb.......................................B
G,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.,,,,,,,,F#
E...............................................................D#
C..........C#
A................................Bb
F...........E................................ F#
C.........A.................................D
[/tab]
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .
Assuming you have 3P and 4 to 5 KL, you could setup an awesome tuning.
The first thing I would consider is moving "P6" to RKL, which frees up one pedal and allows you to play "P5" & "P7" which now would be next to each others with ONE foot and even add the "P6"-change (now on the lever) to the mix. It's a BIG DEAL advantage over the standard setup.
"P8" could be on RKR... so that you'd have the top C->B drop on LKR.
If you have a V lever, I'd lower the top A or both half there.
Still got LKL to monkey around.
Was it JFK who said: Ask Not What TAB Can Do For You - Rather Ask Yourself "What Would B.B. King Do?"
A Little Mental Health Warning:
Tablature KILLS SKILLS.
The uses of Tablature is addictive and has been linked to reduced musical fertility.
Those who produce Tablature did never use it.
I set up my 8 string Jackson E9 guitar to a C6 and I like it a lot. It was 3 and 3 (and still is). I've changed my setup a few times, but basically I still have pretty standard C6 with some of the pedals on knees. I'm still toying around with setups, but I basically have 4, 5 and 6 on pedals now and various things on the knees.
The first thing I would consider is moving "P6" to RKL, which frees up one pedal and allows you to play "P5" & "P7" which now would be next to each others with ONE foot and even add the "P6"-change (now on the lever) to the mix.
This makes sense. This is one of the advantages that universal tunings potentially have, when pedal 6 is put on a lever. However with a S10 3&4, having P6 on the middle pedal still allows it to be used with every other change, and the the diminished pedals ( 5&6 ) are now under one foot. Having P7 on lever ( I suggest RKL ) would enable it to combine with every other relevant change as well.
One could spend a lifetime on any of these suggested approaches and still have things to explore and learn. All roads lead to Rome....
How old is this guitar you are going to change from E9th to C6th?
If the guitar has age on it, Or bought it used with unknown treatment. With changing rods, It may be a good time to remove the changer, Check, Clean and Lube the changer. For its new life as a C6.
Good Luck in this adventure, Happy Steelin.
It's probably pushing 40 at this point, but I got it in very clean condition from Al Brisco 20 years ago and mechanically it's still in top shape - I don't have anywhere to realistically do a full teardown, though I'm confident it doesn't need it - but that's good thinking!